Evolution of fashion in India through Bollywood's leading actresses: India Independence Day Special

Evolution of Bollywood fashion through the years: 

Not for nothing is the 1950s referred to as the Golden Age of Indian Cinema. While India was just a newly independent nation, there was a lot of hope and motivation in the hearts of its people. The cinema of that era reflected that among themes of modernity vs traditionalism, rich vs poor in an India that was still shaping up.

Leading Indian actresses paved the way for fashion and style via their characters like Nargis in ‘Shree 420’ looked chic in her sarees with loosely fastened pallu or Vyjayanthimala in ‘Madhumati’ and ‘Naya Daur’ in her earthy avatar bringing rural India to the fore. It was either a long skirt with blouse and dupatta or saree with a modest fitted blouse. The hairstyle was usually fuss free and out of the face with neatly plaited braids or tied long hair. 

The sixties were an extravagant time for Bollywood. The actresses became more trendy and savvy in their style. Hairstyles were experimented with and some became trends that are popular till date. Some classical hits of the era defined the Hindi film industry and how leading ladies of the Bollywood industry defined style for the newly independent nation that was getting over its colonial hangover.

‘Mughal-e-Azam’ brought the anarkalis in vogue with Mughal-era defined jewellery accompaniments that were nothing short of opulence and drama. Madhubala became the epitome of beauty and everyone wanted to emulate her onscreen style. On the other hand, Sadhana popularised fringe haircut as she appeared in ‘Woh Kaun Thi’. The haircut was so much in trend that salons across the country saw a surge in demand for the same hairstyle and almost every college-going girl was seen sporting a Sadhana cut. Sharmila Tagore in ‘Aradhana’ brought a new blouse-saree fashion with tight-fitted blouses, deeper necklines and crisp pleated sarees that accentuated the bodice. Meena Kumari in ‘Saheb Biwi Aur Ghulam’ channeled the rich silk sarees that have been in fashion immemorial. 

It was an action films era for Bollywood films with a little tadka of romance and hippie culture. Amitabh Bachchan and Rishi Kapoor rose to overnight fame with their angry man looks and romantic vibes respectively.

The leading ladies of Bollywood like Sharmila Tagore, Parveen Babi, Zeenat Aman, Hema Malini, Neetu Singh, Dimple Kapadia were vibrant and ready to experiment with sartorial styles. Hair got a redo, they were accessorised more with headbands, clips and flowers while the clothes range became bigger.

Zeenat Aman debuted retro hippie look while Sharmila Tagore, Dimple Kapadia sizzled on the screen with their bikinis. Thigh high slits were introduced in pants with polka dotted blouses ruling the roost. One of the significant trends in the 70s was bell bottoms and bell sleeves. Women were seen donning mini bell sleeve dresses.
 

The disco trend continued and infact became bigger with the stress on sheer and shiny garments like chiffon and crepe and lots of sequins. Rekha, Sridevi were glamorous icons on screen as they had romance with their heroes while looking effervescently feminine.

From maxi dresses worn by Juhi Chawla in ‘Qayamat Se Qayamat tak’ to Sridevi in sheer sarees in ‘Mr India’ and ‘Chandni’ to Rekha in ‘Umrao Jaan’ -- the era is usually referred to as a potboiler -- a little of something and everything. 
 

This was the year that India saw economic development and with it came newer approach to cinema. From college romances in ‘Kuch Kuch Hota Hai’ to ‘Dil to Pagal Hai, the era was all about romantic comedies with a tinge of family dramas like ‘Hum Saath Saath Hain’ and ‘Hum Aapke Hain Koun’.

Thus the leading heroines Karisma Kapoor, Raveena Tandon, Madhuri Dixit, Kajol, Rani Mukerji started looking to the West for inspiration in short dresses, maxi, denim jackets, jumpers, and a lot of other fusion wear. Sarees got a spin too with deep cut blouses or noodle straps in suits. Aishwarya Rai in ‘Hum Dil De Chuke Sanam’ looked gorgeous in her choli and ghagra ensemble or saree avatar in the later part of the decade. 
 

With the internet came a lot of other things in this decade. There was a lot more NRI content, offshore locations and big budget films started making inroads. Aishwarya Rai, Kareena Kapoor, Priyanka Chopra ruled the decade with clothes that had dangerously short hemlines. It was the decade of crop tops, mini skirts, mini dresses, backless cholis, bikinis.

With specific ‘looks’ being designed for characters rather than the actors portraying them, the decade saw an eclectic mix of ethnic and western styles. Aishwarya looked stunning in desi looks in both ‘Mohabbatein’ and ‘Devdas’ while Kareena as Poo in ‘Kabhi Khushi Kabhie Gham’ is still relevant and who can forget desi girl and her vibe Priyanka Chopra from ‘Dostana’ with the bikinis and smart fashion!
 

Having revolutionised through and through, 2010s houses some of the most intelligent cinema with female centric stories that not only gave boost to women empowerment in words but style and charisma.

Kangana Ranaut made the average simpleton become a literal Queen when she takes that trip to Paris and how in ‘Queen’. Deepika Padukone too made the average clothes look spunky and fun in ‘Piku’. Alia Bhatt brought a little star girl vibe in ‘Student of the Year’ with her mini dresses but soon matured in ‘Raazi’ and ‘Gully Boy’ and Richa Chadha, Taapsee Pannu all made breathable fashion a style statement. 

It’s the age of realistic cinema or so we would like to believe judging from how this decade has started. While pandemic has played spoilsport for the last two years (counting 2021), we have some realistic, wearable fashion that mirrors the society. From Taapsee Pannu’s sarees in ‘Thappad’, to Kangana Ranaut in ‘Panga’, it’s been all about making fashion your own.