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From Jane to Hermès: The journey of the Birkin Bag

WION
New DelhiWritten By: Hem Kaur SaroyaUpdated: May 24, 2022, 12:13 PM IST
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Photograph:(Twitter)

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How did the replacement for a humble straw bag become a monolith of the luxury goods market? 

Picture this - it is the year 1946. A little girl named Jane Mallory Birkin was born in London, England. Jane would go on to be a prominent name in the London Swinging Sixties scene. A pop culture icon for years to come. But most importantly she would go on to be the inspiration for the most popular high-end handbags. The Birkin. The protagonist of this story. Say the words handbag supremacy and there is just one bag that comes to mind - The Hermès Birkin bag. The most sought-after arm candy. Also, the most outrageously expensive one.

But from Jane to Hermès - how did the Birkin get here? What is it about this wonted appearing structured elite keister that fetched it a place on the top of the high-end bag pyramid? Let's talk about it.

The fashion-lore goes that it was during a flight from Paris to London, in the year 1983 - when Jane Mallory Birkin was seated next to Jean-Louis Dumas - chairman of Hermes group then - that she shared how difficult it had been for her to find a weekend leather bag that she liked. This was right after her straw bag toppled over from the overhead compartment on the flight. In the following year - the Birkin bag was created. An unassuming structured black leather bag. It was simple. It was practical. And in Jane's words, it was 'bloody heavy'. Nonetheless - she used it. Its various compartments, spacious insides and sturdy structure made it a practical weekend bag.  

Each Birkin is hand-crafted. Using premium materials (read cruel) like calfskin, alligator skin, and ostrich skin. Lined with goatskin on the inside. No, this is not the opening scene from American Horror Story. This is the recipe for one of the most coveted bags. The bag doesn't feature any large logos - and the hardware - it takes finesse to install hardware like so.  In 2015 - Jane wanted her name to be removed from the bag due to concerns over the company's practices of acquiring animal skins. There was some back and forth - Hermes reassured her of safe, more ethical practices and that was that. 

Jane's Brief was simple - she wanted a bag "bigger than a Kelly but smaller than a Serge". But the Birkin bag - was larger than life. 

How does a bag - a simple weekend bag - manage to do that?


THE BIRKIN FEVER

Now, you can't just waltz in a Hermès store and buy a Birkin. That is not how this works. In its Eyes Wide Shut style - Birkins are limited in number. And each Birkin - completely handcrafted by craftsmen that train decades - is different. Owning a Birkin means - being part of an elite clique.  There is an exhaustive waiting list and also a cap on the number of Birkins each customer can buy. As per estimates, there are some 2000,000 Birkins currently in circulation. 

and that is exactly what has made Birkin bags such a hot commodity in the resale market. The most expensive Birkins are the Himalaya Birkins. Made from extremely rare albino croc skins. Sometimes the skin is bleached extensively to achieve the coveted texture and colour.

No points for guessing that there is a sprawling network of counterfeit Birkins. And we have to give it to them - over the years the quality of counterfeit luxury items has improved. Its a game of spot the difference and true Birkin connoisseur is almost always going to win. 


THE MOST EXPENSIVE BIRKINS EVER SOLD 

Himalaya Birkin Sold in 2019 for $500,000

Himalaya Kelly Sold in 2020 for $437,330

Himalaya Birkin Sold in 2017 for $383, 000

Himalaya Birkin Sold in 2016 for $300,168

Hermès Porosus Crocodile Sold for $298,000


Some say a Birkin is a better investment than gold or silver. As per a survey the price of Birkins have seen a stable rise each year.. And owing to its exclusivity - the resale value of a Birkin is often higher. Turns out - if there is a signature Jeffree Star pink Birkin that you want - someone out there perhaps wants it more and is willing to pay a couple grand extra for this unique artistic creation. And since there aren't very many Birkins in the sea - it's all a matter of who is willing to pay first and more.  

David Oancea currently holds the world record for the most expensive Himalayan Birkin ever sold at - $ 500,000. And in his own words - he did it for the content, for the record. 


EXCLUSIVITY, INDIVIDUALITY & SELF EXPRESSION? 

Consumers buy goods for the dopamine hit. Often without even realizing it. Yes, that includes you and I. Guilty as charged. Bags, shoes, clothes - they are tools to express yourself. The crutches that help us stand out. To be a part of an exclusive clique like that of the Birkin bag - you can only imagine what the high of that purchase would be. Luxury goods are a stamp of self-worth. Research says that 51.33 per cent of college-going kids buy things they cannot afford to simply satisfy their vanity.

If you think you're immune to this - think again. But who can deny the power that a small leather accessory holds in shaping the narrative that we are constructing of ourselves? After all, what better way to appear more enigmatic, and conspicuous than to sling a giant black tote on your shoulders? Pray, why else would Anna Delvey wear what seemed to be a poorly styled Alaia dress? 

These are questions of a consumer. Not accusations. Consider this an introspective account. 

Luxury Goods only account for about 5% of the product sales in America. And here's the thing - luxury brands have no desire to eat into the remaining 95% of the luxury goods pie. 

So, what defines luxury? Is it quality or exclusivity? When you figure it out - let us know too.